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Calibrate most Canon and Nikon cameras and lenses with FoCal Pro Lens Calibration from Reikan. In addition to the software license, a 150mm standard hard target is included to provide the most accurate calibration. The straightforward software runs on your Windows or Mac computer for added convenience. Using your camera's USB cable, FoCal Pro connects and operates your camera remotely, capturing test images, downloading and analyzing each image in real time.In addition to the auto focus calibration, FoCal Pro supports focal lengths over 400mm, focus consistency, aperture sharpness, analyzes for dust, and compares your results with other FoCal users around the world.
Calibration and test results are stored and archived for later review.Setting up the calibration is easy; simply attach the included FoCal Target to a wall with your camera set up on a tripod set to live view for accurate alignment. As soon as the target is set up, the automatic focus calibration process takes over providing a quick and error free result for up to 5 cameras at the same time.
I recently purchased a 50mm 1.2 and wanted to zero in the AF. Attempted the moire effect AF test and came up with a -4 MFA.
Took some real world shots and was not happy. Ended up plunking down $40 for the mid-level FoCal program and started running tests.
The first night it was raining, so I tried the focus test indoors and the results varied greatly (-6 to +3). Figured it was lighting.
So I waited until the next day and set up in my back yard in daylight (the recommended environment). Results varied from -9 to +3. Ended up using a printed (free) focus chart and settled on -6, which seems to give me the most consistency over varying distances and apertures.Anyway, I feel like I just wasted $40 and 2 hours of my life. Sometimes NEW isn't always better.Anyone had better luck? Is there something I'm missing?
From my experience, for best results in focus MA, one really needs to have the environment as close to real life shooting as possible - meaning both correct light (use daylight, not fluorescent / LED / tungsten), and distances (if the typical use of the lens is full-height portraits, the size and the distance to the printed target should be chosen accordingly).I spent a lot of time doing indoor testing (printed targets, computer monitor with moire patterns.) of my lenses, and was never happy with the real life results. Then I discovered that I get better results by hanging a large printed target on a wall in my backyard, and shooting it from realistic distances on a sunny day.
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I didn't even need to use a tripod, remote shutter release, mirror lockup etc. with a few shots at each zoom and each distance you can get a pretty good feel on what MA is needed.My newest zoom, Sigma 17-50 OS, was tested to work fine at -2 MA, in real life environment.
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My other fast lens, 135L, looked fine at -1 MA, but I noticed recently that for my main usage of the lens (full height portraits, meaning you have to be really far, with my crop camera), f/2.0 shots are always very slightly off. I plan to redo the 135L testing, this time from a correct, large distance.6D, Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC, 135L, 70-200 f4L, Laowa 15mm 1:1 macro, 50mm f1.8 STM, Samyang 8mm fisheye, home studio. It's recommended to MFA a lens at it's widest aperture, and I think that 50L gives the AF system issues due to the DOF of f/1.2 being smaller than the tolerance of the AF system. Basically, FoCal can't get a consistent reading and therefore can't make an exact adjustment.To get my 50L dialed in I just did a LOT of shooting wide open, at objects with good texture and contrast, and eventually had an idea of where the AF was hitting the most (in front or behind target), and adjusted accordingly. Trees are my favorite tuning subject, since the bark is really contrasty, and the grass behind/in front can help you determine where the sharpest plain of focus is. In the end, I had a range of potential 'good' MFA values (-10 to 0), shot at each value in the range, and eventually landed on the best one.
I'm at -3 right now.Also, don't go off of the 5D3's LCD to see where your focus is hitting. Get the images into DPP, make the AF Points visible (Command + J on a Mac), and see where you are. The 5D3's LCD is very misleading.Lastly, shoot your subject from straight on when doing MFA, don't shoot at angled targets. Otherwise you'll end up with what appears to be back focusing, and after you do MFA to correct for that, you'll have bad front focusing once you go to shoot something straight on.Canon/ Nikon/ Fuji. JimmyDever wrote inI bought Focal Plus last week and adjusted all of my lenses.Results were consistent all times (ran the test 5 times per lens to be sure)Results are amazing.
My lenses now focus consistently and dont back/forward focus like they did prior.Really like The program. Maybe dud lens? Maybe not doing it right?I'm in the same boat.
I recently bought the pro version and having done my own MA on a couple of lenses, I ran a series of tests with FoCal on these same lenses. FoCal ended up with the exact same results as I'd found in my own testing, so that was extremely encouraging. Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more. And all is free.
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